Battle Magazine — March 1997
An archive project by Flock MFGNew issue alerts →
About this issue
116 available scans from Battle Magazine — March 1997, in rtl reading order. Original scans with English draft translations and searchable page text. Drafts have not received exhaustive image proofreading; unreadable source remains recorded in the archival data.All 59 provided PDF pages retained as 116 reader pages; completeness against a physical printed copy has not been independently established.
Page 26 — English draft translation
The resulting number is compared with a trigonometric table: it falls between 1° (tan 0.0175) and 2° (tan 0.0349). A scientific calculator gives 0.0209470, which is closest to 0.02020, so the rear toe is about 1.2° inward. For a more precise measurement, use tan 1.16° = 0.02024. Adjust the rear toe-control arm to achieve your preferred setting. For example, tan 1.5° = 0.0261, so with a 2,475 mm wheelbase, B should be about 65 mm. In this case, the laser point should be 65 mm inward from the level reference mark.
That corresponds to 1.5° of rear toe-in. The calculations so far assume the front and rear track widths are equal. If the front track is wider or narrower, apply a correction. If the front track is wider, subtract half the difference between front and rear track widths and shift the horizontal reference inward by that amount. If the front track is narrower, use half the difference in the opposite direction and shift the reference outward. Then measure as before.
I’m Shimada, a Peace Publishing representative who works on the motorcycle magazine Baribari Machine. Thank you for welcoming me back. This is my second appearance. Why do you keep using my car as the example? I can’t say here—it would expose me! I paid for these parts myself and install everything I can, except the complicated work. I’m a real car enthusiast. The Battle Club wide-track spacers are precision-made, and I’m satisfied with them.
The Celica’s stock tires were 215/50R16; I changed to 225/50R16 and 8-inch wheels with +38 offset. But flush fitment looks cool, so I used spacers to move the wheels outward. Before buying spacers, measure from the tire edge to the fender edge, check the stud length, and make sure the wheel has clearance if the studs protrude past the spacer. That tells you roughly what thickness to use. Always tighten to the specified torque with a torque wrench. Tightening excessively can cause damage. Apply torque evenly to all five hub nuts, then retighten once more to account for initial settling.
Following the instructions was easy. The result: a great-looking flush fit! But the Celica has a 10 mm fender lip, and when the suspension compresses, the tire rubbed against it. I used a special tool to roll the lip inward myself. It went well, but the paint peeled badly, making a mess. I touched it up with a paint pen; you can barely tell unless you look closely. That’s it—was that enough, Kiteretsu-kun!?