Battle Magazine — March 1997

When choosing pads, as noted earlier, metal types also wear rotors faster. For drifting and street use, a pad such as the OCR’d “NAY” may suit drivers who want strong initial bite. But if you push hard on a circuit, it may be finished after 20–30 minutes, so use pads designed for higher temperatures. Suppose you combine standard pads at the front with NAY pads at the rear for drifting. The rear wheels may lock first and make the tail swing when you brake, but that is dangerous. A sudden stop on the highway could put the car into a drift as well. That means the brake balance is upset. Braking force is distributed about 60 percent front and 40 percent rear, so an imbalance creates a difference in when the brakes bite, and the pads’ effective temperature ranges can also differ considerably. It is better to use the same pads front and rear. Using a better pad at the front and a grade lower at the rear is acceptable. Keep the 60:40 balance in mind when upgrading. ● Maintenance Like a tire’s wear indicator, pads with a center groove can be used until the groove disappears, but check them often. Depending on use, the backing plate can separate from the pad. If you find a crack at the boundary, replace the pad. It has begun to fail against the rotor; braking may feel soft—

Brake fluid ● Choose brake fluid suited to hard driving. If you attend track days, use fluid with a high boiling point. If you currently use DOT 3, the article suggests moving to DOT 4. DOT 5 is described as racing-only and highly moisture-absorbing, requiring frequent maintenance; it says this is unnecessary unless you do serious sports driving. Even ordinary DOT 4 can develop vapor lock after 40 minutes of sport driving, introducing air and making the pedal soft with excessive travel; it then needs bleeding. The article notes that some DOT 4 fluids approach DOT 5 performance for hard driving. Endless RF450, for example, is described as suitable for street and sports use.

This is a brake fluid we recommend to drifters. ● Brake-fluid maintenance The replacement interval depends on how often you drive. For ordinary street use, changing it about every six months is sufficient. If you attend a track day, change it after each event. The AE86 takes about one for a full change; roughly 0.5–0.6 may be enough. Use any remainder to top up while bleeding the brakes. … Brake hoses Stainless-mesh hoses are recommended. A standard rubber hose lasts about four years; stainless mesh lasts longer. Replacing the rubber hoses with mesh can improve pedal feel and directness.

Ukiya Shokai also sells stainless-mesh hoses by Al’s. They use an internal Teflon tube for durability and cost ¥29,800 for one AE86. Installation requires a special tool. To replace a brake hose, you need a flare-nut wrench, a ring wrench with a cutout at the end. A regular spanner can round the fitting and ruin the hose. The tool costs about ¥3,000, but a team only needs one. The fitting torque is printed as 15 . Do not overtighten just because it is a brake line; it may be impossible to remove next time. Install the hose straight, without twisting it. Some people remove the caliper and accidentally reinstall the hose twisted.

If left twisted, a hose can crack, which is dangerous. Brakes are directly safety-critical; if either the front or rear fails, the driver can panic. Secure the hose so it cannot move around. A standard hose can wear through if it rubs on the body; with a mesh hose, the body itself may instead wear and rust. … Master cylinder Open the hood and you’ll find the brake master cylinder near the suspension tower on the driver’s side. Check it occasionally for brake-fluid leaks. If the piston seal inside deteriorates, fluid can leak. If you see oil seeping around the boot, overhaul it immediately. A master-cylinder stopper is suggested as a tuning part; the article says it makes pedal feel more direct and improves braking.